This and That

Sorry for no posts. Our icard expired and we had to figure out how to get the new one set up. Nursat Guy to the rescue?

Alex continues to make progress with every visit. His legs are much stronger than when we first arrived and he is able to support weight on them for longer periods of time. Even his nannies have remarked to Vera that he uses his legs a lot more. He also used to always have his fists clenched and his arms held tightly to his body but yesterday when Vera brought him in one of his arms was down, loosely across his chest and that hand was spread out which was a first. He is also able to hold his head up while on his tummy a lot longer than he was able to when we first met him and he has become very vocal. Yesterday he talked up a storm and was very fond of blowing raspberries. He really loves to 'converse' with us as we try to mimic his noises.

We walked to the 'Gros' supermarket the other day after lunch and, amazingly, were not trailed throughout the store by the security force. Perhaps we are blending in?

Jim has gone jogging a few mornings and gets curious looks from the locals who are heading off to work. The sun doesn't come up here until about 7:30 so that is when he goes. Vera also took us to a gym that is at the soccer stadium and Jim bought a month-long pass. It is small but has free weights and such and is just what Jim was looking for. There are usually only about 4 or 5 people there working out (it is pretty expensive by Kazakh standards--our pass was about $25). As with everything else here, it doesn't open until 9 a.m. so Jim has to work out after our visits and before dinner.

Last night we met up with the Petersons for dinner at Sakartvello, the Georgian restaurant. After dinner we walked to their apartment with them so we would know exactly where it is. The building itself is crumbling and looks like a place you wouldn't want to be after dark (although it is safe--we asked Vera and Medet and they said it was fine and they would have told us if it weren't). The 'lobby' was also depressing, just what you'd think a Soviet apartment building would be like--lit by a bare bulb hanging from the ceiling and without a paint job in years. We rode the refrigerator-size elevator (it took 2 trips to get us all upstairs) to the 8th floor and saw that their apartment is actually quite nice. The thinking is that since the people now own their apartments they really take care of them but since they don't own the building itself--who cares! The apartment was large with a living room, dining room, bath, 2 bedrooms and kitchen. Since they are on the 8th floor they had an amazing view of the city. And did I mention the practically brand-new washer? We had a great time and hopefully helped them somewhat with their jetlag, keeping up until almost 10 o'clock.

Today between visits we are going to take a class in Kazakh culture at Interlingua, a language school here in Taraz. We are going to be guinea pigs as I think we are the first to take the courses. They are offering 5 weeks of classes, 2 classes per week, on the history of Kazakhstan (nomadic roots, Silk Road, Soviet control; Kazakhstan today (independence, current government and economic status); traditions and customs; national food and drink; and language (Kazakh and Russian). Since we only have about 1 1/2 weeks left in Taraz we have asked if we can just start with the customs and traditions and maybe do a little language.

Yesterday we got together with Zhanibek ("you can call me Johnny"), a local college student who enjoys practicing his English with Interlink's Sara, for a trip to the bazaar. And what a bazaar it was! You could buy anything there, from clothes and shoes to sheep head and intestine (let's just say the 'meat pavilion' is not for the faint of heart). My favorites were the women selling spices--paprika, curry, etc. in smallish burlap bags and you buy spices by the scoop--and the people selling cookies and sweets, all stacked up neatly and tons of them. It was very interesting and we'll have to go back and take our camera. We bought some dried apricots, almonds and chocolates as well as a few souvenirs. We ate lunch there, too.

They sell these triangle shaped savory pastries called 'samsas' from little kiosks or on the street The ones we happened to buy came straight out of an old Soviet oven that looked to be of the same generation as our trusty O'Keefe and Merritt back home. The pastry is very flaky, like phyllo dough (yum!) and they triangle-shaped and as big as your hand. You can get chicken, lamb or cheese and we've heard that sometimes they are just filled with fat (Kazakhs love fat). We had one of each and the cheese was the best! Each samsa cost 20 tenge, about 15 cents, and are worth every penny. Very delicious.

This morning we have rain for the first time since we've been here. This will mess up my laundry schedule since I'm sure our things won't dry at all, the good news being that the hotel has a laundry service that is pretty reasonably priced. I typically do a small load in the morning in the bathtub, wring it out and rinse in the sink, then hang to dry on the window sill. All the wringing, etc. is doing wonders for my biceps! Today I was sewing a small hole in Jim's sweater and thinking, "What's next...darning socks??"